South America trip – 1 June 2012 to 10 July
Rio
Friday morning 1 June left nice and early for airport. In time but flight delayed. Connect time was 1 hour. Had to legit to the connection. Paris had to go through security check again. Took so much time! Thought we were going to kiss flight but made it. Bus to aircraft took ages. Long flight but airplane half empty. Got to Rio on time but landing delayed as another plane on runway so had to abort descent and circle round again. Landed about 40 mins later and then waited and waited for baggage. After an hour realised bag were not coming. Asked at desk. Yes bags had missed connection so were going to arrive next day. No spare changes of clothes, plus heavy periods. Got to flat. David had prepared pau bhaji waiting for us. Afterwards went out shopping to get stuff. Only pharmacies and some other shops open. Raining heavily. Got toothpaste, brushes, T shirts and drinks. On way back – disaster – overflow of period. Had to rush to loo. Trousers and knickers all soiled. Had to wash both , shower and then put on wet knickers. So first day disaster.
2nd day tour booked for city including Christ the redeemer. Next morning – no suitcases yet so same clothes. Hot day today. Lovely tour of city. Met lots of young people from hostels. Had madaf on beach. Went to Tijuca forest. Used to be a coffee plantation before but river was being dry so 200 years ago changed to forest. Was getting cloudy but got to Christ statue and everything cleared up. Lovely views of city and Copacabana. Impressive statue welcoming all and blessing the city. After this went through Santa Theresa artistic district- cobbled streets Then Lapa where artist is tiling the stairs. Met him there. (found out that died the following year – maybe murdered!)Had drinks in that area –bit slummy. All 3 of them had the caiprinha – Brazilian national drink. Me tried to get fresh juice – no fresh juice only vimto.
After this got dropped at Sugar loaf mountain. Sugar loaf cable car very expensive. Met some Indians in queue – living and working in London. Saw sunset from up sugar loaf mountain. Gets dark very quickly. Saw it all lit up – beautiful! Came back and luggage had finally arrived. Dinner out to Italian restaurant. Pizzas – no tomato paste at bottom! Had fresh juices – lovely.
Next day booked favela tour. Had a walk on beach before – so beautiful – Sunday morning – lots of activities on beach – volleyball, gym, roller blading cycling etc. Hitesh and David went for a run. I went for a walk. Fresh fruit and vegetable market. I bought paw paw lovely, already had mangoes tomatoes etc. Went to hostel for favela tour. Before that passed fresh juice bar and had fresh passion juice – delicious. Forgot camera in hostel . favela tour – guide very funny. Had a motor bike ride to the top of the favela. Beautiful views from there. Art studio – looked around then walked down.- shops , bakery She’s not convinced about pacification of slums. Children want to be drug barons. Some parts – smelly, dirty, big rat.
In trying to avoid dog shit, Shaila sprained her ankle so now hobbling along. 60-70% of our ticket monies goes towards helping projects in slums. But some people very rich in the slums , millionaires but don’t want to move . Illegal businesses and in favelas are protected. In the afternoon went to pick up camera from hostel. Had more juice – delicious. Then went to apartment and went to the beach.
David & Hitesh swam in the sea. I stayed out. Beautiful hot day. In the evening cooked ready made meals then went for a walk on the beach. Had madaf – not so nice. Paintings being sold in night market – like previous day market.
Next day flight to Iguazu.
Iguazu Falls
Airplane half empty. Korean couple we had met on city tour, had booked flights at airport – much cheaper. Got to Iguazu – pouring rain. Shaila in wheelchair. Decided to go to hotel and rest . Brazilian side tomorrow. Staff really friendly. Went to ATM to withdraw cash. Max limit 1000. Ordered pizzas and ate at hotel with own drinks and wine. They still put out tablecloth and uncorked wine for us. Pouring all day – very cold here. Caught up with e-mails and had a little nap. Then Hitesh and me had drinks – fresh OJ and caiprinha and chips.
5 June 2012 – 3 years to kaka’s death – beautiful sunny day. Had ordered a taxi to take us to Iguazu Brazilian side. First went to the bird park. Ended up buying these plastic bag raincoats for 20 reals (£6.50) as had forgotten rainwear but totally useless. Bird park was amazing – so many colourful birds! Then went to Iguazu – from entrance had to take a bus into the falls. Walked a lot – initially didn’t look all that strong but the trail kept leading us nearer and nearer. The final climax was amazing. Nice place to remember Ba and Kaka – played a bhajan in their memory and recited Navkar mantra. The day was beautiful and you had a perfect rainbow. The thundering roar of the waterfalls is something to hear and see. Iguazu’s most iconic wildlife is the Great Dusky Swift. These small birds constantly dart around the falls, then suddenly seem to disappear. They fly right through the torrents of water to roost and nest on the cliff faces behind the falls. Curious behaviour at first glance, but it’s the ideal haven where no predators can reach them.Had some light snacks and drinks in café. Then went back on bus to entrance and then taxi back to hotel. At hotel caught up with e-mails and then went for dinner. Had spaghetti – others had cannelloni, gnocchi. Hitesh had pizza. Fresh OJ for me; caiprinha for others. Meal was ok – restaurant really nice. Met south Korean couple that had met in Rio again. They’re off to BA. When leaving, met these Indians at restaurant. One couple was Shah (Jains) from San Francisco. Other was Parsees from Sydney. They’ve been to Chile , Patagonia etc. went to bed. Next morning was feeling a bit like upset stomach. Kind of diarrhoea and constipation. Took a sudarshan tablet and then was fine.
Next morning after breakfast, took a bus to Argentinian side of park. Today a bit cloudy. Bus was really cheap. Met the Indians again on the bus. Couple from SF were flying direct from there so had their luggage with them. Took train first to the upper trail – walked for about 1km across the Iguazu river and then came to the Devil’s throat. The thundering roar of the waterfall was just awesome. The Argentinian side was really busy – lots of elderly people. Brazilian side had been really quiet. Next took the middle trail and saw the falls from that angle so stunning and then the lower trail – got really close to the falls and got drenched by the downpour. The plastic did come in handy after all! The boat to the Island where you could see the whole falls was not operating was water level was too high. Then had snacks in the restaurant. Sat inside to avoid the menace of the coatis who are very daring and keep trying to snatch food and drinks. Time to say bye to Iguazu and take bus back. Packed this time and ended up standing all the way. At hotel rested. Transferred money to Nikhil and then went for dinner. Another restaurant this time – buffet food . got a little discount as not eating the grills. Lots of salad, rice, ratatouille etc. met the parsee couple again. After dinner went back to hotel and bed. Still not played any cards!
Next morning early wake up as taxi to airport was at 8am. After breakfast, packed and ready to go. 15kg limit so had to shift some to hand luggage. But airport no problems. Flight to Salta only a third full. Same as flight from Rio.
Salta
7 June 2012 – now on plane – another beautiful day but cold. Apparently Salta even colder. Let’s see. Got to Salta and airport was pretty dead. Tried to get the taxi but could not get all our bags in so decided to get the bus. Had to have 2 pesos each. Could not get enough change. Had to lug all our baggage to the bus stop. Got there and then the bus arrived. Unfortunately it would not wait for Shaila who was lagging behind so had to let it go. Ten mins later another arrived and we got all our luggage in. the coins were not being accepted so some man put his pass and we gave him the money but he had to pay for 4 . So this lady then helped us by swiping her card 3 times. From the bus terminal we had directions to his house and Hitesh managed to figure out where to go.
So we arrived at Tamar’s house which was up a steep hill. He was looking out for us and was surprised we had taken a bus. Then had to walk up lots of stairs to the rooms which were quite quaint. Tamar very enthusiastic and gave us lots of information. We told him we were vegetarian. He suggested a place that delivered veg food so we ordered salads and sandwiches etc. It was delicious. First time I’ve had lunch. Generally I’ve just been having dinner. After lunch we went up in the cable car to see the surrounding area. There was a fitness class up in the hills. Views not that fantastic. Then came down and went into town. Decided to track down the travel agency. 2 addresses. At both the addresses it was shut so went to complain to the tourist office. She took down complaint as it is registered with them as a bona fide agency. Wandered around the square which was pretty and really busy. Couple of beautiful cathedrals that we went into. Had dinner at a local restaurant. Had empanadas and a crushed corn thing like pizza. Next day had booked a tour of seven hills and an Indian village so woke up early as tour was to leave around 7am. Didn’t actually come till 8am and then stopped for drinks etc where we got some coca leaves for the altitude. You had to wrap about 10 leaves in your mouth and leave there. Saw the coloured hills – beautiful. Indian villages were ok. Markets were very colourful. Stopped off at a cemetery that looked like houses. All very pretty . on way there, encountered some protestors who had blocked the road and set fire to it. Had to wait for about 40 mins before police came. Way back went to another restaurant recommended by Tomar. Only had pasta not pizza but ok.
Next day had booked bus for early morning at 5.30 am so early start. Bus left on time and went through same journey as yesterday. Really beautiful scenery. Have been warned about Bolivia so need to be careful. No hotels booked from now on so just winging it. Let’s see how the next leg goes. Got to La Quiaca on time. Walked to the border. Not very far. Not too much queue at the border so easy crossing.
Bolivia
Uyuni
Got into Bolivia – time change so extra hour to spare . Walked to the train station – miles away – lugging our suitcases. Should have taken a taxi. Decided half way about changing money so Hitesh and David went back!. Changed the Arg Pesos but ATM was dishing out US Dollars. Got to train station and they only accept cash in Bolivars. So Hitesh and David walked back all the way and back again. Still loads of time to catch train. Booked ourselves first class – 168 bolivars each. Train gets into Uyuni at midnight. Got a meal on train. Rice vegetables, chips and fried egg. Played cards. Tomorrow need to book the salt flats trip. Need to find hostel for tonight as well. Got to Uyuni at midnight. Lots of people got off. Had a backpackers hostel right across from station but it was full. Had taken a taxi and then found that the hotel was right opposite the station. Basic but clean – 200 bolivars per night. Was really cold at night. In the morning got up early and booked the salt trip. $160 per person. Private tour. Really good to see the salt flats – amazing landscape and then went up this cactus island in the middle – very tiring. Also saw the railway cemetary – once all trains being used for mining now defunct.
Now living 1st night in salt hotel – everything made out of salt – even the bed frame and beds. Had a nice lunch of quinoa and vegetables. Then had tea. Also had hot shower which we had to pay for , Now waiting for dinner. Dinner was vegetables with chips and also soup. Very nice. After this bed. It was so cold. Had to get up early at 6am to go and visit the lagoons. Drove for ages and stopped near volcano for breakfast. After breakfast drove to a few lagoons. – really beautiful scenery and then went to accommodation for lunch. Hitesh not feeling well and threw up. Has a headache. We’re quite high up at 5000m. After lunch went out again for red lagoon and then the hot springs which we swam in. So cold outside but lovely inside and views of the snowcapped mountains . Then saw the green lagoon and then the geysers. All in all a wonderful scenic day but tiring. Dinner, Hitesh not feeling well so went straight to bed. Not a hotel here but communal room with around 8 beds. We had a bit of spaghetti and then went to bed. So cold. Had my hats and gloves on but still cold. Next day woke up around 7 am and went to a place called the lost city. Really isolated but absolutely beautiful. Got back around 4pm and then repacked luggage – had Left most of it at travel agent’s office. Then went for dinner . Lovely big pizza – could not finish it so took a doggy bag. At 8pm caught bus to La paz – supposed to be a 10 hour journey – morel like 13. Very bumpy. Got to la paz and took taxi to hotel.
La Paz
Not easy to find – went round and round in circles – finally got to it and it was full, so came to next place . Room with kitchen facilities and not too far from centre. Will be here for 3 nights. Walked around La paz. Hitesh had got map and we saw most of the centre. Very Hilly and surrounded by snow capped mountains. Had a lovely meal at au Café Beirut after watching a cultural ballet show. Good day.
14 June went to the Valley of the Moon in the morning – really spectacular. All these volcanic rocks – lots of gorges and narrow paths. Afterwards tried to walk to golf club but quite far away. So took taxi to centre and went to artisan market. Lots of alpaca wool stuff. Nice shops and restaurants. Had lunch at a quirky place – lots of old clocks old cash registers, guns etc. Wandered around the market afterwards . Bought a shawl and a scarf and card etc for david’s 50th. Tomorrow. Then wandered around . Saw the hoisting of the flag next to the parliament buildings and guards ceremony. So many women with floral skirts and bowler hats. It looks really odd. Lots of protestors as well. La Paz is an insane city but contrary to what people tell you quite safe. Walked around and saw lots of people setting up stalls for the evening – quite an experience They siphon off electricity from the general wires around. Walked all the way home – quite difficult when uphill.
15 June – David’s 50th birthday – gave him his presents –he was happy. Hitesh and I took taxi to golf club. Nice round but expensive . I walked around but still asked them to give me certificate re playing in the highest golf course – the ball just flies. Then in afternoon went back by taxi and watched football at a hostel. England won. This evening going out for David’s birthday to a local restaurant. Lots of quinoa based dishes. Service really poor. Hitesh organised a cake for him- large ice cream cake which was then distributed to all the other guests.
Next day planned to catch the 10am bus. Took taxi to the bus terminal but only buses were at 8am and 2pm. To Copacabana. So ended up spending another half day in la paz. Had my hair cut and walked around. Afterwards took the afternoon bus to Copacabana –
Copacabana
Copacabana (Lake titcaca on Bolivian side – Lake is highest navigable lake in the world and huge– had already booked the hotel. Hotel not far from the bus terminal. Lovely room overlooking the lake – (L’aldea del Inca) Ate at a nearby restaurant- enchilada – Hitesh had pizza. Bolivia is reasonably cheap.
17 June took early boat at 8.30am to Isla del Sol. Boat took 2 and half hours and then walked up to the ruins. Altitude is beginning to affect me. I canot climb hills. After this decided to trek to the south side- lovely view but a gruelling trek. I was so tired. Just made it back to the boat. Next day early morning took bus to Puno.
Puno – Lake Titicaca on Argentinian side
Had already booked a place – mosoq inn – great place and friendly staff. Had also arranged for them to pick up from bus terminal. They were ready and waiting there. I’m getting so good at organising everything and the Spanish is also coming along. Walked around the town and had lunch. Then noticed lots of people in the square so realised sth was going to happen. Managed to get front seats and watched parade of dancers from different schools. Watched about 30 – all of them had their own bands – so colourful and then got up to leave – but still going. The streets were so crowded. Unfortunately didn’t watch all but really great unexpected free entertainment. Went out in evening to a restaurant but food was terrible and so expensive – better off with pizza.
Next day early morning start as booked to go to Uros and Tequille island – very interesting. Had lunch there as well but coming back lake was so rough. Some people felt sick. Came back and used internet for a while. Uros – floating reed islands – feels weird walking on them. Traditional crafts ; Tequille Island – men knit and women weave. Different types of hats signify whether man is married or not ; women by colour of shawls – more colourful are single.
Arequipa
20 June – left Mosoq inn at around 10 am to catch bus to to Arequipa – supposed to be a 6 hour journey but bus delayed as stopped by police a few times so got to Arequipa quite late around 6pm. Had booked hotel – slightly out of town but a lovely place. Went into town straight away and booked a tour to colca canyon the next day – just a day trip – pick up was to be at 2.30am! . Then went around Arequipa – lovely square and pedestrianised streets like a Spanish town. Found a veggie restaurant – was really looking forward to the food but service was appalling. So left before they had served us everything. Back to hotel- bed however was great . Hotel run by 2 brothers in their early 20s – really helpful. Had to be up at 1.45 am for the tour. They gave us some snacks as we were missing breakfast. Got picked up by Taxi and went to the booking office. Van came quite quickly. We were the first ; then others he had to pick up were not quite ready so took over an hour to gather everyone. Finally set off one hour late – it was freezing!. First stop at around 5 am to see all the volcanoes – misti, Viatu, Unwa etc. Then slept until stopped for breakfast. Breads were warmed up so lovely and had coca tea. One of the guys in trip was indian from Kenton – he’s been travelling on his own for a few months. Then stopped off at the canyon. Lovely views and saw so many majestic condors. Canyon is twice as deep as the grand canyon. Would have been great to hike down but so tiring! Then stopped off at some hot springs – more like a swimming pool and later at a local place for lunch. Lovely breathtaking scenery everywhere. Had some avocadoes and cactus fruits. Got back late in the evening – we were not hungry so took taxi back. Hitesh then went walking for pizza as he was hungry – but no success in finding sth as were out of town.
22 june – next morning took it easy as taking overnight bus to Cuzco. Had a lovely day in Arequipa. Went to santa Catalina monastery, Juanita museum and church and went for dinner at a terrace restaurant overlooking the mountain. Had left luggage at place we booked bus tickets for cuzco and they were supposed to organise taxis for us to bus station. We got there at 7 as instructed. Lady was in no rush to get us to bus station. Then at 7.30pm she panicked and got us to rush out and then started hailing taxis. She knows how much baggage we had but still hailed the smallest taxis ever. After another 10 mins, we decided to take 2 taxis – we ended up paying and so much traffic, we thought we’d miss the bus. Finally got the bus station late, but luckily bus not yet left. We had cama seats which reclined ¾ of the way but still not that comfortable to sleep.
Cuzco
Got to Cuzco at around 6.30am and in hotel that David had booked. Went to room and freshened up and then went to main square. Found out details on Machu Pichu. David and they decided to do the train rather than bus which was going to take a long time. Went to book Machu Pichu and mount pichu tickets. Woman made mistake on our tickets and it took 2 days to get sorted. Stupid woman tried to charge us penalty as well when it was all her fault!
In the afternoon went around Cuzco – found this huge market where they sold just about everything – meat, cheese, grains etc. In the streets also lots of fruit and veg sellers but then lots of meat as well. In the evening was supposed to be a concert but then appeared to be cancelled. Booked our train tickets – really expensive. Then went to a Lebanese place for dinner – really nice. Came back early and to bed.
24 June – periods started so was not feeling great. It was Inti Raymi – Sun festival – there was going to be a ceremony at the main square. Hitesh and I went early and before main square managed to see all the parade including the king and queen. Then went to the main square and lots of ceremony and dancing. Managed to get a really good view by inching ourselves in. Right at the end I was feeling quesy and thought I might black out. Crowd was really thick but managed to get out and sat in a shop’s chair. Eventually felt fine and then walked around and had some juice – delicious. Then went back to falafel place. Lovely food again. Met an American family there who gave us lots of tips on Machu pichu.
Watched the England match together then walked back to the hotel. I was feeling tired so rested. Hitesh went back for massage etc . Was supposed to come back around 8.30pm but when not back at around 10pm started panicking. Finally came in around 10.30pm – lots of street parties with all the colourful inca dancers. He had a good time.
Next day had booked taxi to take us to sacred valley and few ruins before dropping off at Olytumbi to catch train to Agua Calientes. All the ruins terraces were really awesome and worth visiting including the salt terraces.
Was supposed to catch train at 7pm but lots of delays and now seems to be stopping so often so not quite sure what time we’ll get to Agua Calientes. Next day want an early start to Machu pichu.
Machu Pichu
26 June – woke up at around 4.45am to have an early start. Had early breakfast and set off. Found out we needed tickets for bus to buy beforehand. Then David could not find his macho Pichu tickets. Horror! He’s so disorganised! Yesterday he could not find booking to the place at Agua Calientes. We went ahead. My period had started so not too much fun. We also had tickets for mount pichu to climb up. Decided no guide was needed as they had a mach Pichu guide book. It was breathtaking. Early morning it was all covered in mist – spectacular sight – lots of walking up and down. Around 10 am we decided to climb mount Pichu. It was hard work. I was getting out of breath the whole time. Gave up half way where I had a lovely view of machu Pichu. Hitesh went on ahead all the way up but said it was gruelling. In evening decided to go for Mexican – happy hour cocktails but food not that great. Then had train to catch to Olytambu. Had seen this hotel for 50 soles there and booked ourselves there – was actually really fine. In the morning no breakfast there so Hitesh and I said we’d get some fruit. Others went for breakfast. Hitesh had arranged with taxi driver to take us to cuzco via ruins and had left his bag there. When he went there 5 mins later, he could not find the guy. Other taxis said he had gone to Urumbamba so Hitesh jumped in a taxi to chase him. I said I would stay behind. Others were oblivious to all this goings on. A few mins later, a guy comes to me – he surmised that I must be his wife and told me let’s go. I said we thought he’d gone to Urumbamba and he said he’d just parked his car round the corner. Finally managed to phone hitesh’s cab and they returned back. Afterwards we bought some fruit etc and waited for others who were their usual slow self.
When we spoke to the driver again he said he would take us to Pisac not the ruins – he wanted more money so in the end arranged another taxi driver to take us after all that!
Went to ruins – Pisac really impressive. We were all tired and although the other ruins were impressive, we were not too bothered to climb up. Got to hotel around 5pm and it was raining. Caught up with e-mails and arranged to meet others to go to veggie restaurant. Really good and cheap place.
Next day Hitesh not feeling well so we had a late start. After breakfast he went back to sleep and then around noon we went to Cuzco to book flight to lima . Others taking bus to Nazca lines. Have booked for tomorrow. Hitesh not feeling well. Threw up a couple of times . I had some fresh juice and sandwich and then we came back. Booked hotel for Lima. Hope he’s feeling better tomorrow.
Lima
Next day Hitesh slightly better. Flight to Lima at 12.25pm so left hotel around 10am. No problems with flight and got taxi to hotel. Hotel really nice best shower, room really nice , bathroom great 2 double beds. Went out in afternoon to Miraflores. Found a veggie restaurant Govindas – had puri and saak. Not that great. In the evening went to Miraflores park – lots of people there very lively. Lots of cats , stray ones that were really docile. Hitesh tried some drink that locals drink- awful. Next morning nice spread for breakfast – avocadoes, potatoes etc. Went into town by metropolitan bus – had to get a card and then top Went to the cathedral and the Archbishop’s place. Very impressive and then to the St Dominican convent. Quite pleasant. Could not go up to the roof terrace as it was nearly 3pm so we were asked to come back on Monday. Then walked to a few parks on the way to the water fountain. Long walk – on way saw a veggie restaurant but only open mon to fri. fountains were brilliant – very pretty and only 4 soles. Came back around 10pm . Hitesh wanted Pizza- walked around for ages but could not find anything. Ended up ordering Dominos – was pretty awful. But it was so busy.
1 july This morning had decided to go to Barracco- went by the sea. Nice shopping area and then walked to Barranco. Long walk. It was pretty run down – good in its hey day now sorry state. Local bus back and then walked to hotel Decided to watch the Euro final – good match. Afterwards Hitesh fell asleep for a little while. After 6 pm we decided to go out to eat at Govindas. It shuts at 7pm and we got there at 6.40pm but they were not accepting any more customers so it was a matter of walking around and finding sth else. Walked for ages. Hitesh didn’t want pizza. In the end we ended up at café for lasagne and bruschetta. Both really cheezy and really expensive plus 18% service tax.
When we got back we found out that others had arrived but they were out.
2 July
Next morning met them. They had an earlier flight so were going into town earlier. We left later and went by metro bus again- getting the hang of it. Went to the square and the Dominican convent- up on the roof – good view. Then decided to walk to the botanical garden. Long walk but no longer there – now a farming college. Walked back saw a huge market with lots of aisles. Lots of different stuff – shoes, clothes etc. Then walked around for a while and had some juice at juice bar. Wanted to try guanaban and lucuma but they had neither. Had guava juice. Afterwards came back and had food at govindas –ordered set menu which was ok. Chips and salad good. Then walked round Miraflores again and went to supermarket to get some quinoa. Afterwards at hotel killing time to get flight – night time flight to Atlanta
Atlanta 3 July to 10 July
Shreya’s arangetam on 8 July
Hasmita Shah 