The Indian experience ( December 2006)

After an emotional farewell to Arjun, Nikhil and Hitesh, I embarked on my spiritual and medical journey. The plane was ok except that I had my period – could things get any worse!

We landed in Mumbai airport in the blistering heat around noon. We weren’t sure if anyone was coming to collect us. Bena said not so we just got a prepaid taxi. It would have helped if the taxi driver know where he was going – or at least had bothered to ask. After about one and half hours on what should have been a 20mins ride, we finally arrived at our destination, only to find that Dhwani had come to the airport and was still waiting there. Thank god for mobile phones.

I had a shower to freshen up and we then had lunch- after this I decided to take a nap, due to a throbbing headache, backache, stomach ache etc. Why do women have to go through all this? 

Of course couldn’t get to sleep and then heard Manjula and Rama come in with Seiya so went upstairs to meet Seiya. She is looking really well and has adapted brilliantly to the Indian way of life – of course it helps living in plush serviced apartment serviced everyday where you get Molten brown toiletries!

Shortly after Seiya left, we decided t have dinner – before it got too dark and we have complaints from Mama about eating too late.We were not really hungry and so could not eat a lot. We then decided to go shopping. Our apartment converts to a tuition centre in the evening and at weekends – they’re all so competitive here!

Manjula having been here a couple of weeks, knows her way round so quite handy. Bena brought some dress material to have Punjabi dresses made. Asked Manjula how booking was for the ashram and realised when we phoned that the booking was from Monday not Sunday. So we are trying to figure what to do as the car is booked from Sunday. Luckily we got hold of a friend of manjula’s (Bhabhi) and told her we would stay the night there. The car we had was a wonderful gleaming seven seater A/c car. So new he hadn’t had CD player and DVD fitted yet. The road to poona is very smooth. Before we drove, we went to the derasar and got some cash out (ATMs ok in india).

Nearing Poona, realised that Manjula hadn’t actually got an address! Rama’s mobile had stopped working as not a roaming sim. No problem. This driver had a bit more initiative and we phoned from an STD phone. Couldn’t get through to Bhabhi so phoned her maid who has a mobile. Everyone has a mobile in india, even the rickshawallahs. 

Finally after several calls managed to get to her place as they had sent a servant to find us. She was a little surprised to find 4 of us – she was only expecting 2. Nonetheless very welcoming , but she had lots on her mind. I think the building belonged to her, there were new tenants moving in next door, medical students and upstairs the family living there were against students. So everyone was coming in and going out – like a bit of reality soap!

Long and short of it – medical students decided to leave – didn’t want all the hassle in future. 

She is 81 years old and very with it. Born in Burma she speaks around 5 languages fluently. She is very articulate and had some really interesting stories to tell. The next morning we left Uruli Kanchan. Left in the rush hour so it was very busy getting out and at one point the traffic lights were not working at all and all the traffic was trying to move in every direction possible. The policeman trying to control the traffic had given up and it was free for all. We came to uruli around 10.20 and took around two hours to register and get the rooms. Rooms were basic but clean. The bed was hard as a rock, all beds are hard, pillows are hard. We were told to go for lunch quickly as the food might finish. It looked quite appetising, they were starting to dish out the food and then suddenly they figured out we must be the patients and so everything was taken away from us and then we were given something else, rotlo, kobinu saak and salad. No salt in anything. There had been a fruit stall so we went there and got some fruit, guava – delicious. We had to go see the doctor at 3pm, when she found out I had my periods I was told no treatment for me just diet until the period finished. Other went for steam bath and something else yesterday, today they’ve gone for prayer, yoga enema, mud pack etc. – me nothing. However I’m allowed to come out. No breakfast, couple of juices, lunch is at 10.30. Just some fruit, of course you’ll lose weight. Sleep still a problem as bed is so hard. At Bhabhi’s place there was much traffic noise, here it’s the train that goes every half hour or so. Yesterday it was a bit tricky for others to figure out what to do at what time as there are – lot’s to juices to drink every hour and steam baths and mud packs and enema to have in between. Plus no one had bothered to show us where everything was. Ben and Rama went early for yoga at 5.30am, Manjula not allowed. I was up a bit later, was supposed to drink some honey with water at 5.30am, but could not be bothered to get up for that. Had to have another herbal drink at 7am and then others went for an enema. This is basically sticking a pipe up your bum and putting water through it. I’m dreading my turn – you’re supposed to do this on alternate days. After this apparently you just desperately need to go. Next we all had another drink at 8am – carrot juice for Bena and me. For all food and drinks you need food coupons. After this we found a massage lady who really wanted to give us a massage at 25 rupees for one session. I decided I would have one even though I was not suppoed to have any treatment. So I had a massage which was really good and Bena went for a mud pack. After my massage I went to check on them, the mudpack on the terrace was an absolutely weird sight. I wasn’t sure if they weer all ladies as some were topless, no modesty here – I must take a picture here. Bena was adamant that it was a mixed treatment area, some of them did indeed look like men. However Manjula corrected her and said all were women, some of them are just so big. We have all been classed as obese, Bena was not too happy about that. Afterwards at 9am another juice for me, this time orange juice. After this wandering around the compound, talking and meeting up with people. There was a lady near our room making tiny mudpacks so I asked her what they were for. Apparently that’s for the eyes. In the afternoon when theres a silence period you put it over your eyes and rest. Do’s and don’ts of the place – no ones really told us anything as no induction etc however it appears that mobile phones are allowed. You’re also allowed to go out so I decided to go to the village. Bena said she’s also come to the village after lunch. Lunch at 11am – Roti, soup, mixed veg and salad. No Salt. No spices. But it’s not too bad, getting used to the bland food. Went into town – you have to be signed out. Got some toilet rolls, extra towels, dental floss – only 5 mins away. The mud pack lady was telling me how a lot of people sneak in food from outside, also a lot have salt packets that they take to the canteen. There are lots of people from all over india, most fairly well off and they’re fatter than us as well. Weight seems to be a sign of wealth here, the more overweight the more wealthier you are. Certainly this was the case with one guy we met in the evening. He couldn’t stop boasting about how rich he was and how much drinking, gambling etc he did. He was grossly obese. Not sure what he was doing here, he probably got someone else to do his asanas for him, his walking for him. Yesterday afternoon we went to the village, internet was shut so we couldn’t email. Put mudpacks on our eyes and went to sleep. Bena after all her treatments was snoring so loudly she woke herself up. Then went to what was supposed to be pranayam but turned out to be yoga. All instructions in hindi so sometimes difficult to follow. He said not to look at anyone just to follow my instructions. So Manjula asked clarifications for something and got told he was not going to speak in English. If you don’t understand the door is open, you can walk out. A little bit uncalled for, then someone’s phone rang and we thought he would go ballistic but no reaction to this. Manjula was quite upset and made complaint to the office, Bena and me went to listen to the lecture on yogay, Manjula declined when she saw who was giving it. I was just falling asleep in it. Everything’s in hindi and hard to follow.

For dinner we were just meant to have fruit between 200-300g but we decided to buy loads (fruit is good for you!) and had a feast –of chikus, papaya, pomegranate, guava, sitafel . Delicious!

After this over indulgence, we decided to go for a short walk- basically walking round and round the compound. Met this South African chap (had met him earlier)  who introduced us to his daughter and then the really rich fat indians – one of them had 3 houses in harrow, son studying at reading and boasted of £4000 a night hotel stays. Why are they staying in this place that costs 400 rupees ie £4 per night?

Manjula tried to have a discussion about the disparity between rich and poor but I don’t think they even see it as their responsibility to share the wealth. They just boasted how rich india is cos 5% of the population is mega rich. What about the other 95% who barely get a meal a day? 

We sat out in the courtyard for a bit . It gets dark so quickly but it’s really pleasant and played cards for a while. 

Went to sleep around 10pm and only woke up once. Getting used to the bed now. Alarm went at 5am and neither of us were ready to wake up. But got ready quickly and bena, manjula and me went for a walk before going to yoga. It was still quite dark and a bit chilly. Yoga was good , very gentle after which we had our herbal drink and then had another juice, carrot juice after which was massage. Message is so good. The tension in the neck seems much better. She also gave a head massage. After this went for another juice. The juices are all fresh and tasty so don’t miss the food that much. Then went for a mud pack. This really is a sight. You go armed with a sheet to lie on lift up your top so they slap some mud on you. Leave that for ½ hour after which you clean with your own newspapers. It feels very cooling. I’m currently getting room cleaned. All included in price of 300 rupees and am waiting for maid to get some hot water and wash our clothes- 10 rupees per person per day. Still these people keep smiling and want to work for their money. I’ve not seen one worker who’s fat. It’s just the patients. Went to see the doctor in the afternoon and can now start all treatment from tomorrow. Also starting magnet therapy for sciatic pain. 

My first enema today- so nervous and didn’t help that there was such a long line. Waiting made me even more nervous. 

Finally when my turn came , I was not sure what to do even though Bena had told me. She sticks a pipe up your bum and pushes warm water through it. Actually not as unpleasant as envisaged. Sat in the loo for ages afterwards but not much came out. Was supposed to go for carrot juice but didn’t want any mishaps so went straight to room and sat in the loo for ages to flush everything out. 

Massage lady was waiting outside . Was hoping to get Bena to do massage first but the lady couldn’t find her so got her to do me first. It’s just so good. After massage went for full steam. You basically take your clothes off and sit in this contraption with your head sticking out and they put it on. It’s like sitting in a sauna, after which you take a cold shower. 

Following this went for magnet therapy. You sit there with bandages and hold magnet for about 10 mins after which you get to lie on a bed and are strapped in with currents passing in your body. 

After this had lunch – lapsi, saak, soup salad and rotli.Lapsi was nice – getting used to the other foods as well without salt. Went back to the room and R&R with mudpacks on the eyes. This is so cooling. 

Actually fell asleep and was really having a good nap, when heard the rain. All our clothes were outside but couldn’t be bothered to go out and rescue them. Heard Manjula outside, so told her to take them all to her room. It rained so heavily.

Went for a walk in the evening after having Nira juice- some kind of palm , very sweet but quite nice. Have met lots of people. Some gujaratis from Mumbai, husband an optician who said I should go and see Dr Natraj in Mumbai; some other Gujaratis from Pune who were going to take Bena to sort out mobile except it just rained so heavily again in the evening. We were in prayers and hoping that our shoes would not be soaking wet. Must have prayed really hard as shoes were dry. 

Bena’s now got her phone working so she’s really excited. She’s gone to get the charger from Rama in her nighties as hoping to get a phone call from Aasha. Bena now started her periods; Rama started 2 days ago. 

Re people – south African guy called Bhadra has latched onto us. He prefers our company to those 2 other guys, especially the one we’ve nicknamed SID as he just sits around all day bragging about himself. Bhadra has kind of joined up with us – came for a walk with us yesterday and joined us for dinner today. 

Finally Bena got phone working but getting it charged is yet another pallava. The plug was too heavy so we used blutacks and eyepatch to make it stay in place – ingenious or what! Waiting for phone to get charged before can put out mosquito plug back in. There’s some loud music going on outside – sounds like a disco party . Surely not in ashram, although there are lots of youngsters here. Finally got to sleep. Don’t know whether the music had stopped. Alarm went off at 4.55 so woke up with a jolt. Was having such a good undisturbed sleep. 

Bena was not allowed massage as she had period so I thought I would have it at 5am 

Day today as follows

4.55 am – wake up

5am – massage

6 am  – Yoga

7 am – herbal drink

8am – half tub bath

9am – shower

10.30 am – magnet therapy

11.30am – lunch

12 noon – doctor

12.30 – madaf juice

12.45 – in village for internet

1.15 pm  – siesta with mudpack on eyes

Friday night got phone calls from Aasha/ Vipul/ Nikhil and Arjun

So good to hear their voices. All ding fine and coping really well. Saturday – had enema and steam bath as well as everything else. Am now on a fruit diet only but by Friday had only lost 0.7kg

Saturday had a few juices and a pomegranate, guava and papaya. Feel hungry at times but then it goes

Today – Sunday we’re going to Pune to do some sightseeing, shopping and film. Had to get permission to go out and the admin office was not too happy about it. Not in keeping with general philosophy of place etc but granted us permission to go. We’re hoping to get lift from one of the patients here – prakashbhai who’s offered to take us there and possibly back. 

The gujarati couple from Mumbai – Divyesh and Urmi got us tickets for Dhoom 2 and have offered to take us round and there’s going to be 10 of us going together. 

Last night got a phone call from Hitesh and kaka and ba. Hitesh had gone to kaka after some county match. All are fine there. Kaka’s leg is better. 

Yesterday evening had a massage from the trainee doctor. She was really good and did some pressure points that really helped my neck. Suggested I should get special x ray done as spine does not seem normal. Need to go and talk to the doctor about it tomorrow.

Today Sunday was basically a free day – only had the bath tub treatment. Then wandered around here until time for us to go to pune. Manjula went with Divyesh and Urmi and so 3 of us went with Prakashbhai. Jackie had also joined us as he was getting a cab from Pune. 

We were dropped at some junction from which we took a rickshaw to the cinema. Rom inside you could not tell you were in India – air conditioned complex with lots of restaurant and shops. 

Cinema was really huge. Film ok. Lots of different scenery but not much of a storyline. Following cinema went ot a restaurant. There were 10 of us. Divyesh would not take any money for cinema so we said we would pay for restaurant, but again no money as he had paid already. We said we’ll treat them in mumbasi. They have been really helpful as have all the people here.

At the restaurant we had a fruit platter and pomegranate juice – other food looked really tempting but we were good and observed the rules. After this we got a rickshaw to where Prakashbhai was staying. 

Pune was so busy with lots of traffic and saw lots of weddings. They just hog the road with the processions. Finally came back to uruli around 5.30pm. Back to the safe haven and had a nice chat with Maheshbhai and meenaben. They are Gujariti Jains from Pune. Everyone wants to talk to us. Missed our bhajan session today as talking ot everyone. Yesterday the guy was so pleased to see us especially as we sang Maitri bhavanu. 

Monday morning went early for enema – only water seems to be coming out now – good sign.

Full steam and mud pack and then went for magnet therapy. Today the leg seems to be hurting a bit more. Saw doctor and have lost 2kgs. Now she’s said I can have 1 meal at lunchtime but no roti.

Wanted to go for yoga at 2.15pm but the cleaner is supposed to come – he’s just come.